- Phoenix
- Travel
- Desert Towns
Cowboys meet comfort in the West’s most charmingly Western town.
By
Tiana Attride, and Asonta Benetti
Welcome toTwo Days Away, our series featuring weekend-long itineraries within a five-hour drive of your city—because sometimes we all just need a little adventure fix.
For the past few decades, Scottsdale has mastered the art of rest and relaxation. A quick drive from Phoenix, this is Arizona’s own Palm Springs. Much like the Californian escape, it started as a lowkey getaway for the Hollywood crowd, who figured no one would come looking for them in the far reaches of the Sonoran. Scottsdale has it all: arts, culture, glam, and classic desert quirks, with giant, cartoon-like saguaro cacti sprouting up from the ground where Joshua trees might be in the Golden State.
Don’t let Scottsdale’s tagline fool you. It may be called “The West’s Most Western Town,” but you’ll instantly be convinced otherwise. The upscale resorts, luxury shops, and bachelorette parties romping their way through Old Town are a far cry from the rootin’ tootin’ days of yore. But go a little deeper, and you’ll see exactly why Scottsdale earned this reputation.
Friendly, laid-back locals outnumber glammed-up tourists, and bars aren’t afraid to get a little rowdy—in fact, they hope to be. The food scene combines the best of the Southwest with culinary concepts worthy of any major metropolis, and the endless expanse of cacti framed by craggy mountains are as photo-worthy as some of our country’s most stunning national parks. Spend enough time here, and you may find yourself sporting a Stetson hat (Scottsdale is also home to the one and only Cowboy College).
In this town where you’re just as likely to spot cowboys as you are celebs—including A-listers like Beyoncé and Jay-Z, who honeymooned in this very desert—it’s nearly impossible to leave without feeling rejuvenated. Now, whether “rejuvenation” comes from morning yoga and deep tissue massages or that rush while atop a galloping horse, well, that’s your call.
Travel Time:
5 hours from Las Vegas, Nevada by car.
6 hours from Los Angeles, California by car.
If you don’t do anything else: Get some relaxation
It’s incredibly easy to let a trip to Scottsdale quickly turn into a jam-packed itinerary that is both fun but also nonstop. But quite honestly, sometimes the best thing you can do while in town is not much at all. Scottsdale is home to stellar spas that should definitely be incorporated into any visit.
Sanctuary Camelback Mountain, A Gurney’s Resort & Spa offers Asian-inspired wellness at its extremely peaceful and tranquil property. There are indoor and outdoor treatment rooms along with a Zen meditation garden. Try a taste of Morocco and Southern Spain at Joya, the spa at Omni Montelucia, where healing stones and a 55 lb quartz crystal start the journey. Or stand under the outdoor waterfall grotto at the expansive Well & Being Spa at Fairmont Scottsdale Princess resort to soothe the muscles before a Havasupai Falls Rejuvenation.
Relaxation doesn’t always have to be massage or facial-based either. Stretch your legs on some of the fabulous hiking trails that wind around the city and find inner peace in the great outdoors. Several resorts have trails that can be accessed from the property; check with the front desk to see if there are paths available to you. Otherwise, try tackling the 4 mile trail at Pinnacle Peak or the ever popular Camelback Mountain with one of the best views in town. Go explore the McDowell Sonoran Preserve, the largest urban preserve in the entire country, which hosts a multitude of trailheads that cover all levels of difficulty and include some of the most popular hikes in the Phoenix metro area.
Fill the weekend with:
Cultural activities in Scottsdale
Set aside time to soak in all of the culture that the city has to offer. The Scottsdale Museum of Contemporary Art hosts an impressive collection of modern pieces that cover art, design, and architecture that have been carefully curated. Afterwards, walk down the street and back in time to hit up the Western Spirit: Scottsdale’s Museum of the West. It’s considered one of the top Wild West museums in the entire country and should absolutely be on your itinerary because Scottsdale’s Old West past really does play a big part of its unique identity. There are hundreds of pieces on display of 19th and turn-of-the-century memorabilia, along with specialized exhibits.
No trip to Scottsdale with an artful bend is complete without paying homage to Taliesin West, Frank Lloyd Wright’s winter home. The well-preserved property is built with desert materials and one of the architect’s most hands-on projects. Guided tours are available but also keep an eye out for special events like movie viewings and co*cktails at sunset.
Shopping in Scottsdale
Those who like to give their credit card a workout have come to the right place. Scottsdale is serious about shopping and caters to every type of customer available. High-end retail can be found at the aptly named Scottsdale Fashion Square, home to brands like Gucci and Louis Vuitton. For something a little more one-of-a-kind, go to the 5th Avenue Shopping District, which is full of boutiques, vintage shops, and a great way to support local small businesses. Don’t miss out Native Art Market in Old Town, which is Indigenous-owned and provides space for Native businesses and artisans to sell their goods directly to customers. Patrons can know they’re getting quality, handmade products while supporting over 400 Native small businesses.
Golf in Scottsdale
Anyone mildly interested in the sport should carve out some time to hit the links while in town. Scottsdale is one of the country’s premier places to get your tees out and there are plenty of courses to choose from. Play TPC Scottsdale for a taste of what the pros experience every February for the WM Phoenix Open (minus the beer being chucked on to the 16th hole). For a gold standard of golfing in the desert, head to Troon North; challenging, yes, but being surrounded by the stunning Sonoran Desert landscape can soothe any bad round. And stop by the PXG Scottsdale headquarters for an enjoyable custom fit session for golfers of any level; for an hour, staff will watch you pummel balls with a state-of-the-art golf simulator and offer pointers as well as club tweaks.
Hiking in Scottsdale
While you could spend your entire trip sipping co*cktails or soaking up the luxuries at the many spas, being in Scottsdale is about getting outside—by the pool, on the golf course, while you eat, or on the trail. There are a number of solid hikes around town, all of them best taken in the early morning before the sun rises and the heat sets in. As a heads up, even those hikes listed as “quick/easy/moderate” may be more strenuous than you expect, due to rocky trails. Bring plenty of water, slather on that sunscreen, go slow, and remember that it’s always okay to turn around!
It’s not uncommon for trailheads to stem from resort grounds; from both Sanctuary and ADERO, for example, you can head right up into the hills. Otherwise, try your hand (or feet?) at a 4-mile hike up pyramid-shaped Pinnacle Peak. If you’re really down for a challenge, hit the Camelback Mountain Trail (accessible from Sanctuary) or the Tom’s Thumb Trail, two popular yet difficult paths that’ll take you soaring above the desert.
In Phoenix, hike Piestewa Peak Summit for a serious 2.1-mile challenge, or take a genuinely breezy 0.3-mile climb to Hole in the Rock, where you can hang out in the opening for a birds-eye view of the Arizona capital (and a pretty stellar photo opp, which admittedly results in regular crowds).
And while it’s not a trailhead, per se, one could argue that the Desert Botanical Garden is equally important to visit if you really want to get acquainted with life in the Sonoran. There, you can see fields of cacti and other desert flora, catch vistas of distant red rock mountains, and learn how—not unlike us—animals have learned how to create unique, hospitable homes in the heart of the desert.
Cowboy Activities in Scottsdale
On the flip side of all that R&R, you can head into the outskirts of town to experience the true heart of Scottsdale and its western roots. Start at MacDonald’s Ranch, where you can take a scenic horse trail ride winding through cacti and desert brush. When you’re done, explore the ranch, which is fashioned after the kind of town you’d expect to see in a Western film, complete with old-timey building facades, a horseshoe toss, a locomotive, and a (not so traditional) petting zoo. They also host cowboy cookouts from November through April.
But, to really immerse yourself in the spirit of the West, sign up for a weekend at the Arizona Cowboy College. It may sound gimmicky, but allow us to clarify: By the time you’re done, you will be sweaty, empowered, and genuinely knowledgeable on how to groom, dress, mount, ride, and, most importantly, understand a 700-pound horse.
Run by Lori Bridwell and Rocco Wachman—who, on top of being excellent riders, might just be the two most interesting and engaging individuals in the entire Southwest—the college offers up the chance to spend a few nights learning the ropes of a bonafide ranch. You’ll spend time in the rustic bunkhouse before getting to know the ins and outs of horses: how they’re trained, how to clean their hooves, how to arrange a saddle, wrangle cattle, and—of course—how to ride ‘em. (Not to mention how to avoid getting the sh*t kicked out of you.)
Even if you’ve never been on a horse before, you’ll be trotting along in no time. By the end, you’ll be in love with your steed, fully ready to run away to Arizona for good, and surprised by how much courage and work it takes to be a cowboy (or cowgirl!), even today. Just be sure to ditch your tennis shoes in favor of some heeled boots; you’ll soon find out why cowboys don’t just wear them for the fashion.
Eat, drink, and sleep
Restaurants and bars in Scottsdale
Did you know that Scottsdale has its own wine trail? The path through Old Town hits up several tasting rooms representing the numerous wineries across Arizona’s three American Viticultural Areas. While in the neighborhood, swing through Rusty Spur Saloon, an iconic location that’s been serving up the cowboy vibes for over 70(!) years. Or drop in at dive bar Coach House, another longstanding Old Town institution with open air seating
For those a little more co*cktail-inclined, there are bars aplenty (this isn’t a hot bachelorette destination for no reason). The Hot Chick mixes fun drinks with arcade games and retro, party atmosphere. Tell Your Friends is an intimate speakeasy with 1920’s flair, a live jazz band, and some outrageously good co*cktails. And don’t sleep on the resort or hotel bars – the options available are impressive.
Scottsdale has rocketed up the culinary chain in recent years. For modern Italian, head to Fat Ox, where Chef Matt Carter’s take on the cuisine include items like orecchiette with lamb nduja and turnip sofrito. There’s the newcomer COURSE, nestled in an unassuming strip mall and pushing out some of the most creative, inventive, and delicious dishes in town. Citizen Public House has remained a consistently good option in the Old Town area, laid back and with a chopped salad worth writing home about. And while there are other Uchi locations in the country, it is worth stopping into the Scottsdale one simply for the items only served locally. These few options only scratch the surface; the endless list of solid options is a good problem to have.
Stay in Scottsdale
A longstanding classic, Hotel Valley Ho has been serving guests since the mid-50’s. Don’t be fooled by the mid-century design; this property ensures a healthy balance of contemporary and historical. Hit the OH pool for some trendy pool fun.
Speaking of history, for a taste of the nostalgic with a luxurious bend, try the JW Marriott Camelback Inn Resort & Spa. For decades, the motto “Where Time Stands Still” has applied to this laidback yet elegant property. Western touches remind visitors of Scottsdale’s heritage while situated between Mummy and Camelback Mountains.
On the opposite side of the spectrum, Senna House Hotel sits nearby to Old Town’s plentiful nightlife, a perfect homebase for nights out. Before getting things started, make sure to snag a reservation at the delectable CALA restaurant that sits on the ground floor.
Tiana Attrideis Thrillist’s former associate travel editor and a cowboy at heart. Follow her on Instagram at @tian.a.
Asonta Benetti is a Phoenix-based freelance writer specializing in travel, food, and beverage. Her credits includeFood & Wine, VinePair, AFAR, Eater, andBon Appétit, among others.
